Tip Archive

The dog you've just adopted wants to please you more than anything else in the world but it's only natural that he may be a bit unsure when he first arrives. The first couple of weeks you and your pet are "getting to know one another". He doesn't know why he has come to your home nor what is expected of him. Please be patient with him and anticipate problems before they occur. Gently and consistently, you'll want to show him the ropes. Don't expose him to too many new experiences at once. If you have children and/or other pets please encourage them to let the new dog get adjusted to his surroundings at his own pace. And hard as it is, resist the temptation to have friends and relatives over to meet him right awayHe needs to know he is really home and that you and he belong to each other

The first night is critical too. Your new puppy will derive comfort from sleeping near a family member. Allowing him to sleep next to you in your bedroom will greatly ease his transition. Please be patient in giving your new Rottweiler time to adjust. It may take several days or even weeks before he fully adapts to his new home but that's a small price to pay for a lifetime of loyalty and devotion.

We're asking you to give up punishment completely ! Just forget all about punishment, aversive punishment, that is. There's another kind of "punishment" that is much more effective - 'Negative punishment' or the withholding of the reward. NEVER, never strike your rottweiler, the consequences can only be disasterous. Handshyness, fearfulness, avoidance of humans, aggression and submissive urination may all result from physical punishment. One of the most important things that your rottweiler must learn is trust for you and also that the human hand is a friend. You're building the foundations of a new relationship with an animal with whom you've chosen to spend many years of your life. You want that relationship to be based upon love and mutual respect.

To that end physical punishment or 'corrections' have no place in a successful relationship between you and your dog. Don't rely on discipline to shape your pet's behavior but instead seek to reinforce desirable behavior. It is essential to reward with food treats and praise. All too often people reprimand their dog for inappropriate behavior {which gives them no information about what you want them to do} and totally ignore reinforcing good behavior. You should actively look for desired behaviors so that you can reward and praise your pet.

Crate training is an excellent way to housebreak your puppy and control it’s sometimes destructive puppy behavior, like chewing on electrical cords or your furniture! Crate training assists in housebreaking by using a dog’s natural instinct to not soil its den. Some people think crate training is “cruel”, when in fact, crate trained dogs enjoy their crate and view it as a safe quiet place to retreat when they are tired or want to be left alone. You want the crate to be a happy, safe and peaceful place for your pup.

Select a crate that is large enough for the puppy to turn around in and comfortably lie down. A crate that is too large will allow a young puppy to eliminate in a corner, while being able to lie down at the opposite end

Don’t be tempted to buy blankets, pads or bedding for inside the crate, if you have a young puppy. Not only do they usually become expensive chew toys and present a choking hazard, but they also interfere with effectively housebreaking your pup. Nothing should be placed in the crate with a pup except a safe chew toy or two such as a nylabone or Kong. Never leave your puppy in a crate with its collar on! If your pup catches its collar on the crate, it can seriously injure or choke your dog.

Never Ever discipline your puppy by placing it in its crate or you pup will associate its crate with punishment. Remember the goal in crate training your puppy is to make its crate a safe and enjoyable place!!!

In general, a Rottweiler is quite a vocal animal who tends to grumble when being petted, handled and played with. A normal grumbler, without ulterior motives, will grumble low in his chest or throat and no facial movement will accompany the sound. In other words, he is not baring his teeth. If he does, you may have an altogether different problem on your hands.

Problems with grumbling that escalate to growling usually begin because the owner is unaware that this grumble behavior exists in the breed. Hence, the first time the young puppy grumbles it is met with what is known as a reinforcing behavior from the owner. In other words, the owner backs off from the puppy, retreats and/or stops what he is doing with the puppy. The puppy has now learned an easy way to get the owner to back off. The next time the event takes place the puppy may growl or snarl and possibly attempt to bite. If he grumbles or growls, wait it out. Do not look at the dog. You might put a slight smile on your face as you wait. If there is even one second of quiet from the puppy, quickly praise and reward with a treat so you can win that battle. Otherwise, you will never win the war.

Grumbling can be looked at as a particularly endearing habit of many Rottweilers as long as it is correctly and calmly handled. Many times the grumbling will stop when the reactions to it are controlled. Often the grumbling stops as the dog gets older. Others grumble until the day they die. Make it your business to be able to understand and handle your dog's vocal tendencies and you will avoid big problems down the road.

Many families have purchased Rottweilers for this trait only to discover later that it brings with it a considerable moral and legal responsibility. Problems can arise quickly and seemingly (to a novice) “out of the blue”. Do not permit strangers unknown to your dog to come into your home or yard unannounced because the dog does not know the difference between a burglar and a friend or relative. Commonly, Rottweilers will not allow even someone they know into their yard or home when you are not at home. The key is proper introduction between your Rottweiler and any new comers in your home.

Your Rottweiler must be carefully schooled through socialization and training to accept your friends into your home. Do not allow roughhousing or playing tug-of-war. People expected to be in contact with the dog while the owners are absent should be thoroughly familiar to the dog long before the owner’s departure. Although they usually do not bite without provocation, being cornered by a Rottweiler (their born instinct) is a very unnerving experience for meter readers, gardeners, or neighbors coming into the yard when the owner is absent. Always lock gates to keep people and your dog safe. “Beware of Dog” signs are a good additive to alert anyone attempting to come on to your property without your consent.

Rottweilers are a sensitive, intelligent, and loyal animals and usually wants to please their owners. Occasionally it can be quite stubborn though, (even trying to test their own masters in their early “Teen years”) and requires more attention. It is imperative that obedience and discipline be consistent, fair, and firm without being overly rough. Ownership is not for the timid or very busy person who cannot, or is not, inclined towards careful supervision and enforcement of the rules for his or her pet.

DO - get obedience training for your dog. Your dog should be willing to please you and consistently respond correctly to commands.
DO - learn how to bring out the best in your dog using positive reinforcement training methods.
DO - learn to read your dog's body language.
DO - construct outdoor kennels sturdy enough to keep your dog in and other dogs/animals out.
DO - seek professional advice from your veterinarian if you have concerns about your dog's behavior
DO - get a rabies vaccination for your dog as recommended by your veterinarian
DO - be aware that your dog's demeanor may change with illness or pain and exercise caution when approaching
DO - determine laws regarding dangerous dogs in your city or county. Specific behaviors that warrant the label of "dangerous" may vary
DO - prevent dog-to-dog aggression by watching for behavior that precedes aggression such as staring at each other.
DO - if a dog approaches you, stand still with hands at side and feet together, or lay on the ground with knees tucked to chest with a fist over each ear. Remain very still and quiet.
DON'T- use physical punishment for inappropriate behavior
DON'T- rough-house or play tug of war games.
DON'T- allow your dog to run off leash without supervision.
DON'T- allow your puppy to "chew" on your hands or arms.
DON'T- attempt to pet a dog that is a) behind a fence; b) tied with a rope or chain; c) in a parked car.
DON'T- try to intervene when two dogs are fighting.
DON'T- approach stray dogs.
DON'T- stare at a dog (do avoid eye contact).

Speaking as a fellow breeder, I take every precaution possible to prevent CHD (Canine Hip Dysplasia), and elbow/shoulder problems in my dogs. As well as breeding only unaffected dogs and buying pups only from unaffected parents, I also line my whelping box with indoor/outdoor carpeting and flannel sheets rather then newspaper for better traction, I try not to house dogs on cement any more then is absolutely necessary, I carry puppies up and down stairs for as long as my back can handle it, there are no fat dogs (especially puppies!), dogs are not allowed to jump into the back of the truck (for example) until after 24 months of age, and no forced exercise is done (i.e. bicycling) until they are certified. I prelim all my dogs at approximately one year of age, if they are not CHD free at that age, I would spay/neuter and place them in a suitable home depending on the severity of the disease. I radiograph the dog's elbows at 24 months of age and send the radiograph to the OFA for evaluation at the same time as the hips are done.

The OFA suggests that we, as responsible breeders should only breed dogs with normal hips to dogs with normal hips. Prospective breeders and buyers should check OFA numbers with the registry and ask to see the OFA certificate. If an OFA number cannot be verified assume the dog to be dysplastic until proven otherwise! Preliminary evaluations can be done as early as 4-5 months of age with 85-90% accuracy. Please remind your vet that when taking the X-Ray anesthesia is recommended, and for bitches the OFA recommends radio graphing 3-4 weeks before or after a heat period to prevent any false positives due to hormonal effects of the estrus cycle. The OFA further states that there are no environmental factors which cause CHD there is no evidence that vitamin C is beneficial in reducing or preventing CHD, high caloric intake resulting in rapid growth and increased weight gain may exacerbate dysplasic hips, but will not create hip dysplasia, running, jumping, slick floors, etc. will not cause hip dysplasia, and that previous injuries to the legs or hip structure can be recognized on the X-Rays and are taken into account when evaluating hip status.

The OFA is the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, Inc. and is responsible for maintaining the hip and elbow registries, among others, for dogs in North America. At the OFA a panel of three board-certified veterinary radiologists will read your dog's pelvic radiograph and give the dog a rating of Excellent, Good or Fair hip structure, all of which are permissible to breed. They will also examine your dog's elbows via standardized X-Ray procedures, and rate him "Clear" of elbow dysplasia. As many of you are probably aware, the Ontario Veterinary College radiologists will also read hip and elbow X-Rays and will grade them "Clear", but these ratings are not standardized along OFA guidelines, as the OVC will grade hips at 18 months of age (versus 24 months for OFA), and they do not have the grading system(s) of the OFA.

The OFA elbow registry is for dogs 24 months of age or greater, and is a standardized evaluation of the elbow joint for ununited anconeal process, fragmented coronoid process, osteochondrosis, or any combination thereof which would constitute elbow dysplasia. Over 70 breeds have been evaluated for elbow dysplasia by the OFA, and positive results have been found in 20 breeds. Rottweilers are currently ranked fifth on the affected breeds list. As of December 31, 1991, 402 Rottweilers have been evaluated, with 38.8% showing signs of elbow dysplasia. Again, these results are biased toward normal, pushing our breed's actual affected percentage up close to the 50% range!! Certainly something to ponder...whether breeding or buying!

I, personally, cannot afford the loss of respect in the dog community, the emotional and mental anguish I would suffer by producing dogs with defects that I could have prevented (or at the very least took every precaution available to attempt to prevent), and I cannot afford to replace puppies or refund purchase prices because my dogs are not healthy. PLEASE PEOPLE, MAKE USE OF THESE REGISTRIES PRIOR TO BUYING OR BREEDING, FOR THE BETTERMENT OF THE BREED (after all, isn't that what we are all striving toward??).

Is large, stocky, muscular, and powerful
Is calm, steady-tempered, confident, and courageous
Is versatile -- when well-trained, can learn and do almost anything
Makes a fine watchdog and guardian
A Rottweiler may be right for you.
If you Dont want to deal with...

An extremely careful search to avoid all the bad-tempered Rottweilers
A bulky dog who takes up a lot of space in your house and car
A heavy dog who wants to sit on your feet, lie on your lap, and lean his weight against your leg Rowdiness and exuberant jumping, especially when young
Destructiveness when bored or not exercised enough
Providing enough socialization so their protectiveness doesn't become aggression
Aggression toward other animals -- chasing instincts
Strong-willed mind of his own, requiring a confident owner who can take charge
Gassiness (flatulence)
Shedding
Legal liabilities (public perception, future breed bans, insurance problems increased chance of lawsuits)
A multitude of serious health problems and a short lifespan
A Rottweiler may not be right for you.

Unstable temperaments. Rottweilers are a dime a dozen, and most of them are bred and offered for sale by people who don't have the slightest idea of how to breed good-tempered dogs. Obedience instructors and behavioral consultants see LOTS of Rottweilers who are dangerously sharp, aggressive, or fearful.

1. Providing the proper balance of exercise. Young Rottweilers need enough exercise to keep them lean and healthy, but not so much that their soft growing bones, joints, and ligaments become over-stressed and damaged. Adult Rottweilers need more exercise to keep them in shape, but not in hot or humid weather for fear of overheating.

If you simply want a pet for your family, and don't have the time or inclination to take your dog running or hiking or biking or swimming, or to get involved in advanced obedience, or agility (obstacle course), or schutzhund (protection), or tracking, or pulling a cart or sled, or a similar canine activity, I do not recommend this breed.

2. Providing enough socialization. Most Rottweilers have protective instincts toward strangers. They need extensive exposure to friendly people so they learn to recognize the normal behaviors of "good guys." Then they can recognize the difference when someone acts abnormally. Without careful socialization, they may be suspicious of everyone, which could lead to biting. Some Rottweilers go in the opposite direction -- without enough socialization, they become fearful of strangers, which can lead to defensive biting.

3. Animal aggression. Many Rottweilers will not tolerate another dog of the same sex, and some won't tolerate the opposite sex either. Some Rottweilers have strong instincts to chase and seize cats and other fleeing creatures. If anything goes wrong in the breeding, socializing, training, handling, or management of this breed, it is capable of seriously injuring or killing other animals.

4. The strong temperament. Rottweilers are not Golden Retrievers. The best Rottweilers are versatile working dogs, capable of learning a great deal, but they are not pushovers to raise and train. Some Rottweilers are willful, obstinate, and dominant (they want to be the boss) and will make you prove that you can make them do things. You must show them, through absolute consistency, that you mean what you say.

5. Shedding. Rottweilers shed more than you might think. Their short, coarse hairs come off on your hands when you pet them, and stick tenaciously to your carpeting, upholstery, and clothing

6. Slobbering. Some Rottweilers, especially large males with loose jowls, tend to slobber or drool, especially after eating and drinking

7. Gassiness (flatulence) that can send you running for cover. Fortunately, Rottweilers who are fed a natural diet of real meat and other fresh foods have much less trouble with gassiness.

8. Serious health problems. The Rottweiler is one of the riskiest of all breeds in the health department. Their lifespan has become short -- an alarming number of Rottweilers are crippled by bone and joint diseases and/or succumb to cancer or heart disease in middle age

9. Serious health problems. The Rottweiler is one of the riskiest of all breeds in the health department. Their lifespan has become short -- an alarming number of Rottweilers are crippled by bone and joint diseases and/or succumb to cancer or heart disease in middle age.

10. Legal liabilities. Rottweilers may be targeted for "banning" in certain areas, or refusal of homeowner insurance policies. Your friends and neighbors may be uncomfortable around this breed. In this day and age, the legal liabilities of owning any breed that looks intimidating and has a history as a guard dog should be seriously considered. People are quicker to sue if such a dog does anything even remotely questionable

First of all, keep in mind that there is no one food that is best for every dog. There is no single food that will give every dog the brightest eyes, the shiniest coat, the most energy, and the best digestion. Dogs are individuals just like people, which means that you could feed a brand of very well-formulated food to a group of dogs and find that most of them do great on it, some not as well, and it may actually cause some gastrointestinal upset in a few dogs. Luckily, there are many well-formulated dog foods to choose from today, and it is fine to try several to determine which one works best for your dog.

Look at the ingredients - High-quality ingredients are essential for a healthy food. Some economy brands of dog food are made from inexpensive ingredients that are not easily digested, and therefore, do not provide the best nutrition. While they may technically meet the legal specifications for percentages of protein, fat, carbohydrates, etc., these foods have lower energy values and lower-grade proteins. Because of this, many health-building nutrients may pass right through your dog's system without being absorbed. It also means that you have to feed larger amounts of that lower quality food to provide your pet with the same nutrition as a smaller amount of premium food. When you compare the cost of these foods on a per-serving basis, and realize how quickly you go through a bag, economy foods may actually cost more in the long run.

I recommend staying away from foods that have “by products” of any kind and “ground corn, wheat, etc.” I believe that no matter which food you choose, you will need a supplement. No food, since it is processed at over 120 degrees, can contain all the vitamins,minerals, enzymes that are needed for a well-nourished dog.

When you are looking for a healthy food for your dog, reviewing the list of ingredients on the back of the bag is a good place to start. By law, pet food labels must list their ingredients by weight. Look for meat, fish, egg, or some type of meat meal or fish meal as the first or second ingredient. Meat, fish, and eggs all have a high biological value, which means they have a high percentage of protein in the form of digestible, usable amino acids.

The next thing to look at is the Guaranteed Analysis on the back of the bag. It is a chart that lists the percentages of various ingredients contained in that food. However, the numbers given in the Guaranteed Analysis do not take into account the amount of moisture in that food. All pet foods have different levels of moisture; canned foods can have up to 80%, and dry foods can have as little as 6%. To determine the actual amount of an ingredient in a food, or to compare between brands or between wet and dry foods, the numbers need to be converted to what is called Dry Matter (DM) basis.

When you have done some comparison and picked out a well-formulated food, make sure you allow ample time for your dog to make the transition from his current food to the new one. Normal bacteria in the intestine help your dog digest food. A sudden change in food can lead to changes in the number and type of these bacteria, making it harder for food to be digested, and resulting in intestinal upset. To avoid problems, switch to a new food slowly, over the course of at least 7-10 days. Start by mixing 25% new and 75% old food, and feed that for at least 3 days. If all goes well, go to 50% of each type of food for 3 days, then 75% new and 25% old for 3 days. By now, your pet should be ready to eat only the new food. If problems occur, consult your veterinarian for advice.

After you have done all you can to make sure a food is nutritionally sound, take a look at your dog after he has been on the new food for at least a month. Bright eyes, a shiny coat, good body condition (not too thin or overweight), and good energy will let you know you are doing a good job with your pet's nutrition.

So be sure and read the label to see what ingredient is listed first (most weight), what it is comprised of (meat, fish, eggs, etc.), stay away from “by products” and grains if possible as they provide little or no usable amino acids for your dogs nutritional needs. There are some very affordable, nutritional products available on the market, just be sure and read the label.

Help Maximize Your Rottweiler’s Life Span!!!

Nutrition is a difficult subject please refer to March’s tip in our archived below for Nutrition advice. Behavior training and exercise are vital to the overall health of your dog. The number one cause of death in dogs is euthanasia. A good training program begins when the puppy is 8- 12 weeks old and continues into senior years. No dog is too old to start a training program. Training will increase and cement the bond of friendship between owner and dog. Obedience trained dogs tend to stay in the household for the duration of their life. Disobedient dogs that are allowed to become a nuisance all too often become euthanasia candidates. Training should involve teaching the command "down" in order to help establish and maintain your dominant position within your dogs pack.

First, observe the puppy before interacting with it. Note how she interacts with other puppies. If she hides in a corner when other dogs are playing and fighting then she will probably not adapt easily to loud, busy environments. Frequent barking or biting with other puppies imply that she is a social dog that is usually not shy in a new or loud atmosphere. If she barks or bites and then loses interest means that she is a balance of the two extremes.

1. Hold her down on her backside with one hand for 30 seconds and observe how she struggles against restraint.

If she struggles to get free then she is likely to be aggressive or responsive to you.
If she resists at first then gives up then she is likely to be independent.
If she licks your hands or doesn’t struggle then she is likely to be nervous or shy.

2. Walk away from her and observe how she reacts.

If she doesn’t follow you then she is likely to be independent.
If she follows you with tail up quickly then she is likely to be aggressive.
If she follows you with tail up hesitantly then she is likely to be responsive.
If she follows you with tail down then she is nervous or shy.

3. Place her in the center of the room and call for her to come to you to observe how social she is

If she comes to you readily with tail up and pounces at you she is likely to be aggressive.
If she comes to you readily with tail up she is likely to be responsive.
If she comes to you with tail down and doesn’t jump is likely to be nervous.
If she doesn’t come to you she is likely to be independent

After your puppy has warmed up to her crate and has entered and exited it a few times, you can close the door. She may whine and paw at the door. She may even start yelping and barking. This is okay. Do not let her out. After about ten minutes, you can open the door and pick her up. Walk her directly to the area designated for pottying. You should never let your puppy out of her crate and allow her to follow you through the house to go outside. Most puppies will simply squat and go where they please. Once you are outside, set her down. You would then encourage her to potty. Choose a couple of words such as, "Go potty," of "Do your business." She will not have a clue as to what you are saying, at first. But, after repeated attempts and with being given a puppy treat and praise, she will learn what those words mean. Most puppies will need to go out at least every hour during the first few days to familiarize them with their potty area. This is a chance for you to catch them doing their business where they need to. Lavish them with praise.

The first few nights may make you wonder why you even brought the puppy home. The repeated yelping and whining coming from the crate can seriously upset many adults who need their sleep. You should look at your new puppy as the baby in the family. Puppies less than four months of age may need to go out once during the night. When she does, pick up your pup and take her to her designated spot. After she has relieved herself, place her promptly back into the crate. You should never play with your puppy during the night time hours. This will only encourage her to keep the yelping up. After a few days, your puppy will adjust to the night time patterns of her "pack" and everyone will get more rest. Most dogs are able to make it through the entire night without a potty break around 18 weeks.

Some individuals may think it is harsh to scold a puppy. These individuals may be the same people who have a dog running wild in their home within a year. Dogs which aren't disciplined can wreck havoc on a home. You may return to find a shredded couch, chewed up shoes, and garbage strewn all over the place. If there are other pets in the home, you should also consider their feelings. They will most likely be intimidated by such a tyrant, and fights could commence while you are away. Remember don’t let your puppy do at 4 pounds what you don’t want them doing at 104 pounds.

If you catch your puppy chewing on something she shouldn't, a firm "no" is usually enough to stop her antics. As with other forms of training, this may take a few days for her to learn. This is why you were advised to move precious things away. We firmly grab the puppy by the back of the neck and give a gentle shake just like her mother would do in order to discipline her own puppies. It also teaches the dog you are the alpha in the family, and not her. If she were truly in a dog pack, her alpha would nip her soundly. So, don't feel as if you are mistreating her. In fact, most puppies seem to feel more secure when they know their place.

The most important thing you can do with your puppy besides introducing a crate immediately, instilling a potty routine, and teaching her what "no" means, is to build the relationship with your new puppy. Get on the floor and play with her. The bond will grow between you and she will love you. This will make your puppy want to please you and be obedient as well. This goes a long way when you start teaching her other basic commands such as "stay" and "come."

What are the best methods for house training a puppy? Your new puppy is home and you have started the house training process. This is just as much a part of training as the "Come" and "Stay" commands. However, mistakes that occur with house training can cause more problems between you and your pet than those encountered with any other form of training. Be patient and stay calm and try some of these helpful hints.

House Training Rule Number One: This is The Most Important Rule – If you don't catch your puppy doing it - then don't punish him for it!

House Training Rule Number Two: Praise your puppy when things go right. Don't let this be a situation where your only action is saying "No" when they are caught in the midst of using the wrong area. If they do it right – let them know !

Crate Training Method: House training involves the use of a crate or cage. The often-stated reasoning is that the animal is placed in a cage that is just large enough to be a bed. Dogs do not like to soil their beds because they would be forced to lay in the mess. It works, and while in these confines, most pups will control their bladder and bowels for a longer time than we would expect. Young puppies, at 8 or 9 weeks of age can often last for 7 or 8 hours, however, we would never recommend leaving them unattended in a crate for that long in most circumstances.

During housebreaking, whenever the puppy is inside the home but cannot be watched, he is placed in the crate. This might be while you are cooking, reading to the children, or even away from the home. The last thing you do before you put the puppy in the crate is take him outside to his favorite spot. The first thing you do when you take the animal out of the crate is another trip outside. No food or water goes in the crate, just a chew toy to occupy his time. Overnight is definitely crate time. As your faith in the puppy grows, leave him out for longer and longer periods of time.

Most people do not recognize an important advantage of crate training. It does more than just stop the animal from messing in the house. It also teaches the puppy something very important. The puppy learns that when the urge to urinate or defecate occurs, he can hold it. Just because the pup feels like he needs to relieve himself, the pup learns that he does not have to. This is thought to be the main reason why puppies that have gone through crate training have fewer mistakes later on.

Make sure you buy the right size cage. You want one that has the floor space that provides just enough for the puppy to lie down. But cages are useful throughout a dog's life and it would be nice if you did not have to keep buying more as he grows. That is not necessary. Simply purchase a cage that will be big enough for him as an adult, but choose a model that comes with or has a divider panel as an accessory. With these, you can adjust the position of the panel so that the space inside the cage available to the pet can grow as he does.

Using too large of a crate can often cause long term problems. The puppy will go to one corner of the cage and urinate or defecate. After a while, he will then run through it tracking it all over the cage. If this is allowed to continue, the instincts about not soiling his bed or lying in the mess will be forgotten and the puppy will soon be doing it every day when placed in the crate. Now a house training method has turned into a behavioral problem as the puppy’s newly-formed hygienic habits becomes his way of life.

Specific verbal communications will also help the two of you understand what is desired. It is an excellent idea to always use a word when it is time to head to the bathroom. We like "Outside?" Remember that whenever you use a verbal command or signal, it is important that everybody in the family always uses the same word in the same way. Think of the word "Outside" in this situation not only as a question you are asking the pup, but also as an indication that you want to go there. Some dogs may get into the habit of going to the door when they want to go outside. This is great when it happens but it is not as common as some believe. We have found that it is better to use verbal commands to initiate this sort of activity rather than waiting for the puppy to learn this behavior on his own. It seems like your consistent use of a word or phrase like "Outside" will cause the puppy to come to you rather than the door when he needs to go outside. The pup quickly sees you as part of the overall activity of getting to where he needs to go. We believe this is much better.

Once outside, we try to encourage the pup to get on with the act in question. We use the phrase "Go Potty." As soon as they eliminate, it is very important to praise them with a "Good Dog" and then come back inside immediately. Again, make this trip that started outside with a specific word "Outside" be for a purpose. If we are taking the pup out to play with a ball or go for a walk we will not use this word even if we know they will eliminate while we are outside.

One of the key issues in housebreaking is to follow Rule Number One (refer to July’s Tip): If you do not catch your puppy doing it, then do not punish him for it! We do not care what someone else may tell you or what you read, if you find a mess that was left when you were not there, clean it up and forget it. Discipline will not help because unless you catch the puppy in the act, he will have no idea what the scolding is for. Your puppy has urinated and defecated hundreds of times before he met you. Mom or the breeder always cleaned it up. Nobody made a fuss before and the pup will not put the punishment, regardless of its form, together with something he has done without incident numerous times before. Especially if he did it more than 30 seconds ago! Puppies are just like our children. Unless something was really fun (and a repetitious act like going to the bathroom is not), they are not thinking about what they did in the past. They are thinking about what they can do NOW. Remember dogs live in the NOW, not passed or present. At this point in his life a puppy's memory is very, very poor.

Anyway, let us face it. It was your fault, not the pup's. If you had been watching, you would have noticed the puppy suddenly walking or running around in circles with his nose down smelling for the perfect spot to go to the bathroom. It is just as consistent as the taxi cab driver behind you honking immediately when the light changes. The puppy will show the same behavior every time. It may vary a little from pup to pup but they always show their own "pre-potty pattern" before the act.

The same should be said as to your first reaction when you actually catch them in the act of urinating or defecating. It is your fault, you were not watching for or paying attention to the signals. Do not get mad. Quickly, but calmly pick them up and without raising your voice sternly say "No." Carry them outside or to their papers. It will help to hold their hind quarters in the palm of your hand while you are carrying them as this will often help them to stop urinating or defecating any more.

They are going to be excited when you get them outside, but stay there with them a while and if they finish the job, reward them with simple praise like "Good Dog."

In the disciplining of dogs, just like in physics, every action has a reaction and for training purposes these may not be beneficial! If you overreact and severely scold or scare the heck out of a puppy for making what is in your mind a mistake, your training is probably going backwards. With house training this is especially difficult for them to understand as they are carrying out a natural body function. Carried one step farther is the idea of rubbing a puppy's nose into a mistake he made, whether you caught him or not. In the limits of a puppy’s intelligence, please explain to us the difference of rubbing his nose in his mess he left in your kitchen an hour ago versus the one the neighbor's dog left in the park two weeks ago. If the dog were smart enough to figure all of this out, the only logical choice would be to permanently quit going to the bathroom. Punishment rarely speeds up house training. Often, it makes the dog nervous or afraid every time it needs to go to the bathroom

If you work or have a hectic schedule and want house training to go quickly, regardless of what method you use, remember, spend as much time as possible with your puppy. We suggest for your health and the puppy's training it would do better for both if you stayed home for a week or so. Under your watchful eye, and by always being there at the time when you are needed then in less than seven days a ten-week-old puppy should be trained. We are not saying there will never be an accident, but they will be few and far between.

The feeding schedule you use can help or hinder housebreaking. You will soon notice that puppies will need to go outside soon after they wake and also within 30 to 40 minutes after eating. Be consistent when you feed the animal so you can predict when they need to relieve themselves. Plan your trips outside around these patterns.

All of this may seem simple, and it really is. The keys are that it will take time and you must be consistent. And, of course, you must never lose your temper or even get excited.

Obedience training is one of the best things you can do for you and your new puppy. Obedience training doesn't solve all behavior problems, but it is the foundation for solving just about any problem. Training opens up a line of communication between you and your dog. Effective communication is necessary to instruct your dog about what you want her to do. You can teach her anything from 'stay' (don't bolt out the door) to 'sit', (don't jump up on the visitors) to 'off' (don't chew the furniture).

Dogs are social animals and without proper training, they will behave like animals. They will soil your house, destroy your belongings, bark excessively, dig holes in your yard, fight other dogs, and even bite you. Nearly all behavior problems are perfectly normal canine activities that occur at the wrong time or place or are directed at the wrong thing. The key

2. Walk away from her and observe how she reacts.

If she doesn’t follow you then she is likely to be independent. If she follows you with tail up quickly then she is likely to be aggressive. If she follows you with tail up hesitantly then she is likely to be responsive. If she follows you with tail down then she is nervous or shy.

3. Place her in the center of the room and call for her to come to you to observe how social she is

If she doesn’t follow you then she is likely to be independent.
If she follows you with tail up quickly then she is likely to be aggressive.
If she follows you with tail up hesitantly then she is likely to be responsive.
If she follows you with tail down then she is nervous or shy.